Tuesday 28 April 2015

Finding paradise in Sungai Lembing by E.S. Tung (Rakyat Post Apr 28, 2015)

THE sleepy hollow that is Sungai Lembing, 40km from Kuantan, Pahang, is fast waking up to the call of the tourism ringgit.
The township, that has been spared the wave of development, and which once boasted having the largest open-cast tin-mine, is drawing hordes of tourists during the weekends and holidays these days.
Urbanites, who have run out of stress-free places to seek solace, have been making a beeline for this small enclave and checking out its handful of tourism products such as a geology museum, an old mine, waterfalls and scaling the panoramic hill.
Enterprising locals, too, are delighted with this recently discovered lode as they churn out traditional cakes and desserts from home for the hungry visitors’ palates.
Comprising mostly descendants of former miners of the Hakka, Cantonese and Hainanese communities, the locals welcome the arrival of new economic opportunities with open arms, even if it was only during the holidays.
On other days, to my delight during my four-day stay here, Sungai Lembing is very much itself — a sleepy hollow where one could have the town to oneself and enjoy the peace and quiet.


Senior citizens gather at a coffeeshop for dinner in Sungai Lembing, Pahang. — TRP pic by E.S. Tung
Senior citizens gather at a coffeeshop for dinner in Sungai Lembing, Pahang. — TRP pic by E.S. Tung

It is a paradise of sorts, away from the hustle and bustle of the city.
During my stay, I noticed that the senior citizens here outnumber their youths.
I was told that the younger generation had left town in search of work and life’s modern-day trimmings. Some of them made it good and took their parents with them.
Others return on weekends to visit their parents and families here.
For some of the older folks, they have stayed behind out of choice because they have grown used to the slow-paced life here.
The innkeeper of the hotel, where my wife and I had put up, described Sungai Lembing as a retiree’s haven.
Things are still cheap here despite the town slowly becoming a tourist haven. One can still get three meals a day in Sungai Lembing for RM10, a 75-year-old lady I met at the market told me.
“But the food is generally what locals eat. If you want lavish dishes, you have to pay slightly more at the restaurants.”
There is no entertainment after dusk. On regular days, by noon, when the traders at the market and food court wrap up their business, the entire town would be left deserted.
Senior citizens while their afternoons away at one of the clan associations, tending to the karaoke machine or spending time watching television at the few coffee shops over a cuppa.



A hawker hard at work in Sungai Lembing, Pahang.  — TRP pic by E.S. Tung
A hawker hard at work in Sungai Lembing, Pahang. — TRP pic by E.S. Tung

By 10pm most of the coffee shops would be closed as the last of their patrons make their trek home on bicycles or motorcycles.
“People in Sungai Lembing generally sleep early,” my innkeeper told me.
“They start their day early, too. Even for those in their twilight, their mornings would start at 5am.
“Those who own stalls at the market will get ready for business while those who have little to do will head for the fields or the hills to do their morning exercise.”
The fact that there is no private clinic or medicine shop in town is testimony that people here generally know how to take good care of themselves.
If they had to see a doctor, they would head to the Kelinik Desa, the government dispensary located just outside town.
My innkeeper attributed the good health of the people in Sungai Lembing to the clean air and unpolluted environment here.
On the few mornings I was here, the township was still enveloped in mist at 8am. But from my observation, there is more to it and I believe that the simple lifestyle which the people have led over the years is giving them back healthful dividends.
For many townsfolk whom I have met, life is still a daily chore of earning their keep. Even in old age, if they don’t run their own business, they will find work in home-based confectioneries.
Because of the scarce economic opportunities over the years, the township has been spared the spoils of modern living.



Old things still find buyers by the roadside in Sungai Lembing, Pahang. — TRP pic by E.S. Tung
Old things still find buyers by the roadside in Sungai Lembing, Pahang. — TRP pic by E.S. Tung

Perhaps because of this, the townsfolk have learned to make do with what they have and live in contentment, even if it means doing so frugally.
With a less complicated outlook towards life, I think they have more time to live, and live happily.
On my last day in Sungai Lembing, as I made my way out of town as a convoy of flashy cars belonging to Singaporean and local tourists arrived, the words of my cousin Jin came to mind.
These city folks may wear the fanciest watches, but the people in Sungai Lembing have all the time in the world to themselves.
I hope things will remain as they are in Sungai Lembing and the folks there will guard their treasure jealously.

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